A landscape in continuous evolution

Previously, we've already delved into the characteristics and innovative aspects of bio - based textile fibers right here. Now, let's quickly go over what bio - based fibers actually are. The term “bio - based” applies to materials or products that are either wholly or partially crafted from biomass. Biomass encompasses, but is not restricted to, plants, crops, plant waste, and aquatic plants. This concept holds great significance in the bioplastics field. There, biomass sources such as corn, sugars, starches, oil - rich seeds, or cellulose are used as substitutes for the conventional petroleum - based raw materials. In the textile industry, the term “bio - based” is frequently associated with the production of synthetic fibers, for example, nylon and polyester. Moreover, man - made cellulosic fibers like viscose, cupro, and acetate are also classified as bio - based. This is because they are derived from biomass resources such as wood and cotton.

The certification of bio - based textile materials encompasses a variety of standards and labels, which are aimed at validating the bio - based content of products. Usually, this means ascertaining the quantity of bio - based carbon content within the product. Radiocarbon analysis is a method that measures the ratio of carbon isotopes (from carbon - 14 to carbon - 12) in a given sample. Given that carbon - 14 exists in biomass yet not in fossil materials, the proportion of carbon - 14 can show the percentage of carbon sourced from renewable biological origins as opposed to those derived from fossils.

The methods of radiocarbon analysis that are recognized are detailed in the ASTM D6866, the EN 16785 - 1, or the ISO 16620 - 1 standard. All of these methods are both accurate and reliable. The first two standards are in line with the regulatory and certification scenarios of their respective regions. ASTM D6866 pertains to the United States, while EN 16785 - 1 is applicable to the European Union. This characteristic makes it such that, depending on the target market, certain products are more appropriately certified under one of these standards. The ISO 16620 - 1 is specifically designed for handling bio - based plastic materials. However, in principle, it can also be applied to synthetic fibers like polyester.

Existing certifications can have specific requirements, such as the minimum bio-based content needed and the testing methods used. We can identify three leading labels.

The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Bio Preferred Program is a wider government-led initiative designed to increase the purchase and use of bio-based products. That include a preference program in certain types of public procurements, a third party testing based on the ASTM D6866 to award a certification label and a financial support to agricultural sectors by creating new markets for agricultural products and residues.

The TÜV AUSTRIA’s OK biobased certification program evaluates and rates the bio-based content of products on a scale from one to four stars, depending on the percentage of bio-based content one star for products containing 20-40% renewable carbon, two stars for 40-60%, three stars for 60-80%, four stars for 80-100%. This certification is applicable to a wide range of products, including textiles. The protocol was created using the ASTM D6866 radiocarbon analysis standard but is now transitioning to the EN 16785-1 with the evolution of mandatory requirement for certain products.

The DIN CERTCO certification label, which is internationally recognized, is founded on the European Standard EN 16785 - 1. It is applicable to a wide range of products, among which are textiles, to guarantee that they contain bio - based materials. This certification provides three distinct labels: Biobased 20% - 50%, Biobased 50% - 85%, and Biobased > 85%. Additionally, the material should have at least 50% organic content.

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